{"id":42213,"date":"2023-11-05T00:18:54","date_gmt":"2023-11-05T00:18:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/business\/on-the-trail-of-brazils-elusive-maned-wolf\/"},"modified":"2023-11-05T00:18:54","modified_gmt":"2023-11-05T00:18:54","slug":"on-the-trail-of-brazils-elusive-maned-wolf","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/?p=42213","title":{"rendered":"On the trail of Brazil\u2019s elusive maned wolf"},"content":{"rendered":"<div>\n<p>Unlock the Editor\u2019s Digest for free<\/p>\n<p class=\"article__content-sign-up-topic-description\"><span>Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><iframe class=\"article__content-sign-up-iframe close\" scrolling=\"no\" id=\"signUpIframe\" data-prev-url=\"\/register\/in-article-sign-up?ft-content-uuid=f03a4dca-dadb-44de-9f93-3f8b33ddcea4\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<div id=\"article-body\">\n<p>We stopped the jeep and listened. We were searching for Nhorinha, a female maned wolf. My guide, Isabela Meniz, turned the antenna to try to catch a signal from the animal\u2019s tracking collar. The faint beeping sound grew louder then faded. The wolf was on the move, somewhere in the gathering dusk. <\/p>\n<p>This was her territory, deep in the heart of the <em>cerrado, <\/em>a savannah of dry grasslands that is South America\u2019s second largest biome after the Amazon. When the BBC\u2019s <em>Planet Earth<\/em> team wanted to film an iconic species for their \u201cDeserts and Grasslands\u201d episode, they came here to Fazenda Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o, to track the elusive maned wolf. An 81,000-acre conservation project, Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o is home to a delightful <em>pousada,<\/em> or inn, where naturalist guides take guests out into the savannah to see its astonishing bird life, and hopefully the maned wolves that are one of the stars of this week\u2019s episode of <em>Planet Earth III<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>In Brazil, the cerrado is the country\u2019s vacant heart, a grassland of long horizons and huge skies. You can go for miles here without seeing anyone. When I asked Isabela why she loved it here<em>,<\/em> she answered simply: \u201cThe silences.\u201d\u00a0 <\/p>\n<p>It was always an unconsidered back country of old ranches, or <em>fazendas<\/em>, of lives framed by hardship and plaintive country music. But now it has become a landscape under threat, on the front line of habitat loss, as vast tracts of the cerrado are being subjugated to large-scale agriculture \u2014 chiefly the monoculture of soyabeans \u2014 at over twice the rate of the Amazon. Some experts predict it could disappear completely in the next 10 years. \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<figure class=\"n-content-image n-content-image--inline\" style=\"width:300px;max-width:100%\"><picture><source media=\"(min-width: 700px)\"  width=\"300\" height=\"316\"><\/source><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/https:\/\/d6c748xw2pzm8.cloudfront.net\/prod\/43621a80-7988-11ee-a3b3-e32082b58d13-standard.png\" alt=\"Map of Brazil showing Pousada Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o\" data-image-type=\"graphic\" width=\"300\" height=\"316\"><\/picture><\/figure>\n<p>For now, the cerrado remains home to a profusion of flora and fauna. I watched as birds danced across the grasslands like an unending chorus line; there are 283 species at Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o and the names reflect their glamour \u2014 the helmeted manakin, the glittering-throated emerald, the fork-tailed woodnymph, the point-tailed palmcreeper, the screaming cowbird and red-cowled cardinal. <\/p>\n<p>Among the mammals are the anteater, jaguar, ocelot and pampas deer. But it is the maned wolf, one of South America\u2019s rarest mammals, that draws processional naturalists and tourists alike. It is a supermodel of the animal kingdom, the most beautiful of canids, shy, slender, fine-boned, with a golden coat and long legs. It would make a leopard look clumsy. <\/p>\n<figure class=\"n-content-image n-content-image--full\"><picture><source media=\"(min-width: 700px)\"  width=\"2159\" height=\"1439\"><\/source><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/https:\/\/d1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net\/production\/a6d229bc-0d70-4f1f-8e99-28fd76b0e1a6.jpg\" alt=\"An inn with a hammock and chairs looking out on to the savannah \" data-image-type=\"image\" width=\"2159\" height=\"1439\"><\/picture><figcaption class=\"n-content-picture__caption\"><span>The pousada, or inn, from which naturalist guides take guests out into the savannah <\/span><span> <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Conservation efforts at Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o include a wildlife breeding program, small-scale sustainable ranching, fruit orchards and experimental projects to find crops that suit the soil and the climate without degrading the habitat. Low-impact tourism is at the heart of the project; visitors bring employment to the locals and value to the conservation of wildlife. <\/p>\n<p>With the retro feel of an old-fashioned ranch house, Pousada Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o is an elegant rustic lodge, all salvaged wood and rich South American fabrics. There is a kitchen producing a flow of hearty meals, a small bar serving excellent caipirinhas and a swimming pool where you can pass long afternoons dreaming of wolves. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<figure class=\"n-content-image n-content-image--full\"><picture><source media=\"(min-width: 700px)\"  width=\"2290\" height=\"1527\"><\/source><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/https:\/\/d1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net\/production\/3b4b2b31-61b1-4c67-ba53-924f15b51562.jpg\" alt=\"Red, green and blue-coloured macaws fly across the savannah \" data-image-type=\"image\" width=\"2290\" height=\"1527\"><\/picture><figcaption class=\"n-content-picture__caption\"><span>Brightly coloured macaws at Fazenda Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o \u2014 there are 283 species of bird within its territory<\/span><span> <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Listed in most compendiums as endangered due to habitat loss, the maned wolf are secretive creatures, ghosting through the undergrowth. The Brazilian conservation charity, On\u00e7afari, which has a base at Trijun\u00e7\u00e3o, tracks them to better understand their movements, lives and challenges. Morning and evening I went out with two of the charity\u2019s young naturalists in their open safari jeep, hoping for a glimpse of the Greta Garbo of the natural world.<\/p>\n<p>Nhorinha is the alpha female of the fazenda territory. Hers has been a complicated existence that reads rather like a soap opera \u2014 serial mates, estranged offspring. Though most maned wolf are monogamous, Nhorinha refuses to be tied down by the wolf patriarchy. She is known to have taken at least three mates, much to the approval of the naturalists who track her. <\/p>\n<figure class=\"n-content-image n-content-image--full\"><picture><source media=\"(min-width: 700px)\"  width=\"2288\" height=\"1526\"><\/source><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/https:\/\/d1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net\/production\/c9fb4e90-3956-4152-be6f-d59387e4d490.jpg\" alt=\"A maned wolf, walking on its high legs\" data-image-type=\"image\" width=\"2288\" height=\"1526\"><\/picture><figcaption class=\"n-content-picture__caption\"><span>\u2018A supermodel of the animal kingdom\u2019: the maned wolf in \u2018Planet Earth III\u2019<\/span><span> <!-- -->\u00a9 BBC Studios\/Sean Crane<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Rumours about her seemed to have a life of their own, like celebrity gossip \u2014 that she had returned to a previous mate; that one of her female offspring was consorting with one of her previous males; that she was pregnant, father unknown; that she was dead, some unfortunate accident. We spent three hours tracking her, listening to the crescendo of beeps, then losing her again, doubling back, scanning the grasslands with binoculars, feeling just a tad like celebrity stalkers.<\/p>\n<p>And suddenly she was there, as we came round a bend \u2014 trotting across the track, as elegantly as a ballerina crossing a stage. She paused and turned her head to look at us. She was beautiful. But in that moment I wondered what she saw when she looked back at us, the silhouette of the jeep against the last light, the figures inside scrambling for their cameras and binoculars.<\/p>\n<p>Then she was gone, the tip of her white tail disappearing into the long grass, a determined survivor in this most extraordinary of landscapes.<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Read the full article <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ft.com\/content\/f03a4dca-dadb-44de-9f93-3f8b33ddcea4\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">here<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Unlock the Editor\u2019s Digest for free Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter. We stopped the jeep and listened. We were searching for Nhorinha, a female maned wolf. My guide, Isabela Meniz, turned the antenna to try to catch a signal from the animal\u2019s tracking collar. The faint [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-42213","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-business"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v21.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>On the trail of Brazil\u2019s elusive maned wolf | Innodebt<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Unlock the Editor\u2019s Digest for freeRoula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.We stopped the jeep and\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/innodebt.com\/?p=42213\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" 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